Saturday, December 17, 2011

Rabbit pregnant information?

When you are breeding rabbits, you always take the doe to the Buck's cage for breeding, because the doe is very territorial of her own cage, and if you put them together in a run, it's like property up for grabs, and they may fight. Also, I would suggest for the time from when you breed your doe to when she gives birth, you keep her in her hutch-(without the run)-because you wouldn't want something bad to happen where she would lose her litter, or cause an abortion. Also, keep animals away from her cage once she has given birth, because if she gets spooked, she may kill her kits. The gestation period of a rabbit is 28-32 days depending on size. If your rabbit does not give birth by the 35 day, then you need to immediately re-breed her. (Unlike what some people think, rabbits do not have periods, and can be bred anytime throughout the year; and even if you don't want to know-a successful breeding has been completed when the buck falls off the back or side of the doe.) After a successful breeding with the buck, return the doe to her cage and keep her inside the hutch. On the 28th day, install a nestbox. You can fill it with things such as straw and wood shavings/strips. DO NOT put hay in the nestbox. All your doe will do is eat. This is OK, but after a while it is kind of annoying.-(And they will still chomp on the straw, but they probably won't eat as much.)-Make sure she has plenty of straw to build her nest, and she will also probably pull fur to keep her kits warm. This is OK. There is nothing wrong with her, it's just her instincts. (You should probably be worried if she doesn't pull any at all.) Also, be advised if you are feeding your doe pellets, do not feed her excessively, as this may cause a condition called mastitis. Mastitis is caused when the doe is getting too much to eat, (or she has a small litter size). This happens because pellets and food in general-(mostly pellets)-cause her to produce milk, and if she is producing too much, or not getting rid of enough of it, it may cake. You can treat this by milking your doe, or keeping it on a strict diet of hay and water until she gets better. During her pregnancy though, make sure she has plenty of fresh water. As her kits begin to eat her food, watch them carefully. At about 3 weeks, start putting enough food in the doe's dish for her kits as well. (Such as, if you are feeding your doe 1/4 scoop of pellets, and there are 4 kits-add 2 more scoops to the dish-so they all get enough to eat.(3/4). The kits can be weaned 4-6 weeks after birth, and the doe can be rebred. (Although I give my does a period of rest before re-breeding them.) When you wean the kits, give them each their own scoop of food in the bowl. (Such as the above situation, each kit would get 1/4 scoop. 1/4 x 4 = 1whole cup-(4/4). You can also wean them from each other at this time-(I don't.)-but you can. If not 4-6 weeks after birth, then at 8-10 weeks; each rabbit should get their own cage. (At this time, bucks need to be seperated-because they may begin to fight, and chew-but, as long as the does in the litter are kept together, and not bred, or mixed, and NEVER seperated; they can basically live their whole lives like that. (You can also re-breed does still have kits/have kits in the nestbox, because of the rabbit's short gestation and growth period; and also the fact that they are the same amount of time.) Also, when you breed your doe, the buck should be the nicest he has ever been. And/Or, he may get very protective of the doe, and slightly territorial. (Just be cautious-know how your rabbits behave, and their reactions to certain stimuli.) Hope this helps!=)

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